Check out last months links below:
1. The difference fins make - 70percent.org
2. Groovy new surf doco released - qualitypeoples.com
3. How to duckdive - yourdailydonkey.blogspot.com
[It’s in Japanese… but fastforward to 0:50 for some slow-mos that help.]
4. Kelly wins the Rip Curl Pro at Bells Beach for the third time
Video | Article - coastalsurfing.com
5. 13ft wooden board sessioned in New Zealand - phoam.blogspot.com
A juicy right-hander that’s peeling down the line. What more could someone want for Christmas?
Yes that’s right, be a good bastard and give someone a wave this year.
As you see it forming up in the distance and you’re in pole position, sus out the chap or chick who’s next in line after you.
If they’re a deserving character that’s been waiting their turn patiently, give ‘em the nod then hoot them on to that wave with full gusto.
As you sow, so shall you reap:
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Hope you get some sweet swell during your Christmas break.
Thanks for reading my blog, I really appreciate your support.
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Even if you’re land-locked or your local break sucks you can still progress your surfing.
Share the cost of a crappy boat with some mates and go scurfing (wake surfing).
Zac and I went halves on Cool Runnings for a mere $250 each. Check out the pic it was a pimp ride!
You can learn many aspects of surfing while getting towed behind a boat. Especially bottom turns, carving, snaps and airs.
Wakeboarding is also rad and teaches skills like edge control and board feel.
It’s crucial that you get a boat with an inboard motor so you don’t mince yourself.
If you just want to get towed behind the boat on your surfboard you can probably get away with a 40 horsepower engine.
If you’re keen to surf the wake (without a tow rope) and do some wake boarding you’ll need at least 70 horsepower.
Use ballast to get a better/ bigger wake. It’s best to use a specially designed “Fat Sac” that you fill with water from a pump.
You can also experiment with where the passengers sit and see how that affects your wake.
How to Stand Up on a Wakesurf Board:
1. Wax your board up hard.
2. Wear a lifejacket. Apart from the obvious less-chance-of-dieing thing, the flotation will make it easier to pop up.
3. Lie in the water with your feet facing the boat and the board perpendicular to the way the boat is pointing, like you would if you were getting up on a wakeboard. Draw your knees up close to your chest. Have your feet sitting on the board.
4. Hold the handle tight with one hand. Hold the board against your feet with your other hand by grabbing the top rail.
5. Ask the driver to put the boat into its lowest gear so it moves slowly. Make sure the base of the board is pointing towards the boat.
6. The slow momentum should press the board to your feet so you can let go of the rail and grab the handle with both hands.
7. Tell the driver to accelerate hard. Now push your back foot down on the board. Simultaneously stand up on your back foot as you swing the front foot around so your board is pointing forward.
Surf’s up brah!
Photo: Acody
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The more confident you are, the better you’ll surf.
Confidence is a state of mind. You can manipulate it to your advantage.
Start by thinking back to the best wave you’ve ever caught at your local.
How big was it? How did it feel? How did you shred the crap out of it?
What sounds did you hear? What colours did you see? What could you smell?
Now put together an imaginary movie of you ruling that wave. Make it detailed.
Play the little movie in your head every time before you go surf this break.
Then say to yourself: “This is my favourite break. Every time I surf here I shred it like a mo fo!”
Make an imaginary movie of the best wave you’ve caught at each of the breaks you surf to boost your confidence and get “in the zone” as you enter the water.
This works. Try it.
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Check out the Coastal Surfing blog. Scott keeps us up-to-date with industry info and he reviews surf stuff like this funky key stash gadget.
Scott’s also got a knack of finding vids that feed the stoke.
I loved this trailer he dug up for Last Name First. It’s about six sets of pro bros who rip:
• Andy & Bruce Irons
• Damien & CJ Hobgood
• Liam and Garrett Mcnamara
• Cory & Shea Lopez
• Derek & Michael Ho
• Sean & Kelly Slater
Check out www.coastalsurfing.com for more vids and inspiration.
Are some of your crew loosing the buzz and getting you down? Do you feel like your boys have aged before their time?
Forget those guys for a week and go shredding with some grommets.
Grommies go hard no matter what.
They charge the big days; but they also surf when the waves suck and still get stoked.
Grommets push their limits and psych each other up all day. There’s a lot of laughs thrown in the mix and boy do they progress FAST!
Being a grommet does have its downsides though. Shan Railton says their main concerns are getting the bash from older surfers, getting constantly dropped in on, and being dunny flushed in the local loos.
Shan puts this down to one thing: Jealousy. Yip that’s right. Deep down we all know grommies have got it sweet.
You can learn a lot from these young guns. Their raw enthusiasm will get you amped and they might even teach you a few new tricks if you promise not to smash them.
I can’t stop thinking about it. I check the surf report every few hours. Instead of working I often just “finger surf” my keyboard, slashing up the space bar like a fat frontside face at the local. And even if there’s only a ripple in the Bay I’m out there shredding it brah!
I’m hooked - well and truly hooked.
I’ve been learning how to surf for a year now. It’s been a wild and wonderful ride. But sometimes it’s also been pretty tough.
You see I’m just thirsting to get better and I’m sure you are too. When I see those rulers in the pocket I think: “that’s me man, I’ve got to get there”.
This blog is here to help you progress. It’ll get you catching more waves, making more sections and slotting more barrels. You’ll find plenty of ‘how to’ info on things like trick tips and reading the weather.
Thanks for bearing with me while I get this site set up. We still have some work to do but should be all good in a couple of weeks.
This blog will improve your surfing.
Photo: Phoam
