His main points:

1. Stay high on the wave at first then push down on your front foot to drop down the face.

2. Don’t spend too much time “wiggling” at the bottom or middle of the wave. Ideally you want to be zooming up and down using the whole face.

3. Crouch low then stand tall to create that nice gliding weave along the wave.

Check out the vid here.

1. The difference fins make - 70percent.org

2. Groovy new surf doco released - qualitypeoples.com

3. How to duckdive - yourdailydonkey.blogspot.com
[It’s in Japanese… but fastforward to 0:50 for some slow-mos that help.]

4. Kelly wins the Rip Curl Pro at Bells Beach for the third time
Video | Article - coastalsurfing.com

5. 13ft wooden board sessioned in New Zealand - phoam.blogspot.com

Want a board you can thrash around more?

Try a swallowtail.

They eat little waves for breakfast and are super skatey.

They excel in small to medium sized swell and mush.

The swallowtail provides two sharp points to pivot on so you get a loose feel and can throw it around easily.

They also allow you to have a wider tail without sacrificing control because they reduce the planing area.

However you’ll most likely lose on high-end performance in bigger waves so might not be the best option if you only have one stick.

Shaper Todd Proctor breaks it down in the vid below.

Yes that’s right, be a good bastard and give someone a wave this year.

As you see it forming up in the distance and you’re in pole position, sus out the chap or chick who’s next in line after you.

If they’re a deserving character that’s been waiting their turn patiently, give ‘em the nod then hoot them on to that wave with full gusto.

As you sow, so shall you reap:

• You may kick off a killer session where everyone cheers each other on and waits their turn like good little girls and boys.
• Your noble act may be seen by someone who later bails you out when you’re going to get your ass whipped in the parking lot by some local dicksmacks.
• You might make a friend for life.

***

Hope you get some sweet swell during your Christmas break.

Thanks for reading my blog, I really appreciate your support.

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You’ll save hundreds in ding repair fees if you can do this yourself. This also saves time so you’re back in the water faster.

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Share the cost of a crappy boat with some mates and go scurfing (wake surfing).

Zac and I went halves on Cool Runnings for a mere $250 each. Check out the pic it was a pimp ride!

You can learn many aspects of surfing while getting towed behind a boat. Especially bottom turns, carving, snaps and airs.

Wakeboarding is also rad and teaches skills like edge control and board feel.

It’s crucial that you get a boat with an inboard motor so you don’t mince yourself.

If you just want to get towed behind the boat on your surfboard you can probably get away with a 40 horsepower engine.

If you’re keen to surf the wake (without a tow rope) and do some wake boarding you’ll need at least 70 horsepower.

Use ballast to get a better/ bigger wake. It’s best to use a specially designed “Fat Sac” that you fill with water from a pump.

You can also experiment with where the passengers sit and see how that affects your wake.

How to Stand Up on a Wakesurf Board:

1. Wax your board up hard.

2. Wear a lifejacket. Apart from the obvious less-chance-of-dieing thing, the flotation will make it easier to pop up.

3. Lie in the water with your feet facing the boat and the board perpendicular to the way the boat is pointing, like you would if you were getting up on a wakeboard. Draw your knees up close to your chest. Have your feet sitting on the board.

4. Hold the handle tight with one hand. Hold the board against your feet with your other hand by grabbing the top rail.

5. Ask the driver to put the boat into its lowest gear so it moves slowly. Make sure the base of the board is pointing towards the boat.

6. The slow momentum should press the board to your feet so you can let go of the rail and grab the handle with both hands.

7. Tell the driver to accelerate hard. Now push your back foot down on the board. Simultaneously stand up on your back foot as you swing the front foot around so your board is pointing forward.

Surf’s up brah!

Photo: Acody

***
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Confidence is a state of mind. You can manipulate it to your advantage.

Start by thinking back to the best wave you’ve ever caught at your local.

How big was it? How did it feel? How did you shred the crap out of it?

What sounds did you hear? What colours did you see? What could you smell?

Now put together an imaginary movie of you ruling that wave. Make it detailed.

Play the little movie in your head every time before you go surf this break.

Then say to yourself: “This is my favourite break. Every time I surf here I shred it like a mo fo!”

Make an imaginary movie of the best wave you’ve caught at each of the breaks you surf to boost your confidence and get “in the zone” as you enter the water.

This works. Try it.

***

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Scott’s also got a knack of finding vids that feed the stoke.

I loved this trailer he dug up for Last Name First. It’s about six sets of pro bros who rip:
• Andy & Bruce Irons
• Damien & CJ Hobgood
• Liam and Garrett Mcnamara
• Cory & Shea Lopez
• Derek & Michael Ho
• Sean & Kelly Slater

Check out www.coastalsurfing.com for more vids and inspiration.

Wax is the only thing connecting your feet to your board so it pays to get it right.

1. Score Some Wax.

1 bar basecoat.

1 bar wax. It’s important the temperature rating suits your break or the wax won’t do it’s thing.

Get a wax comb too.

2. Remove Skanky Old Wax.

Leave your deck in the sun for 20 minutes till wax is soft, but not runny. Use the flat scraper on the comb to remove it.

You can also use a Wax Pickle or special surf wax solvent to get it all off if you’re keen (now is not the time to get DIY on it with funky chemicals or you may melt your board).

2. Apply Basecoat.

Hold the bar at a 45 degree angle so you rub with the edge.

Rub basecoat on lightly in a circular motion - roughly 25cm (10”) circles.

If you’re a learner/intermediate then go hard and cover ¾ of the deck from the tail up. Let’s face it, we probably already look like kooks so no point going for extra style points with a delicate wax job.

Don’t wax the side rails, but do rub a little where your hands grip to pop and duck dive.

Use about ¼ of the bar and you should have lot’s of sweet little bumps.

Do one final layer rubbing rail to rail, then tip to tail.

3. Apply Wax.

Now gently apply wax, again with the bar on an angle rubbing in small-ish circles.

You want to end up with nice small round bumps.

4. Future Care.

Use a wax comb with diagonal cross-hatching strokes to revitalise traction from time to time.

Keep your wax in a plastic snaplock bag so it doesn’t get covered in crap and melt all over your pimp ride.

Always put your board in your bag the same way up or you’ll get wax on both sides of the bag, which means wax on both sides of your board. That’ll slow you down.

When your wax gets all skanky and flat start again from Step 1.

I just wish it tasted as good as it smells.

***

Slap on a DVD of your favourite pro shredder (they should have the same stance as you e.g. regular or goofy).

Fast forward to where they bang out the trick you want to learn.

Put it on slow motion.

Now stand up and get in your surf stance (you may feel like a knob doing this so feel free to close the curtains).

Keep a close eye on what the pro is doing and imitate their movement.

Watch the trick several times, each time focusing on a different aspect.

1. Stance.

At what points are they getting low with bent knees?
When do they extend their legs and stand up?
Are they relaxed or tense?

2. Upper Body.

Do they lead certain parts of the trick by swinging their arms and shoulders?

3. Speed.

How fast are the going and how do they generate speed?

4. Eyes.

When do they look up at the lip and when are they staring down line to set up for the next trick?

–

The more you do this, the more natural it will be for your body to replicate this trick in the water.

Now go hit the waves. Don’t forget your tool belt ‘cos you’ll be throwing hammers all day…

Buy surf DVDs here from my store.